Title: Chasing Mavericks
Text type: Sports
Authro: Brandon Hooper, Jim Meenah, Christine Meyani.
“Legend has to start somewhere.” The legend of Jay Mortanity began in Sanata Cruz. This is the place where his love of surfing was born and bred. Jay Mortanity was a young 16 year old boy who lived and breathed surfing. Jay’s passion of surfing is what introduced to him his mentor/friend Richard “Frosty Hesson. Frosty guides Jay as he prusues the biggest challenge in surfing ‘Mavericks’.
Jay studies the ocean like someone studies a painting or a book. His passion and knowledge of the ocean teaches him to tell when the ocean is calm or most importantly when the swell is dropping or increasing. “The more seconds between each wave in a set means its getting bigger.” Frosty teaches Jay not only to surf but also about discipline. Jay also learns from frosty that it is just as important to have a good work ethic off the waves as it is to have a good work ethic on the waves. His four year journey takes through ups and lows and matures jay from being a boy to a grown man.
One message in Christine Peymani tells through Chasing Mavericks is how Jay needs to live his life, to dedicate his life to be able to surf this wave. Frosty lives his life through his four pillars of the human foundation, physical mental emotional and spiritual. Frosty forces Jay to train differntly to other surfuers, he believes that this wave is much more then just any surf wave, he believes this wave is the key to becoming a man. The physical pillar stood sheer strengthy needed to paddle out to the wave. For Jay to build this pillar frosty makes Jay paddle a long board towards Santa Monica bay, 36 miles away. “The day you can paddle that far will be the day you will be able to surf mavericks, not a moment sooner or a moment later.” Frosty helps Jay build his mental pillar by calculating the tides and swells of the ocean, and not just at one break. Jay has to find several different surf breaks to write a report on each and every break he finds. Frosty teaches Jay how hard you have to work in life, the sacrafices you need to make, countless amount of hours spent off the waves to learn the craft of surfing. This book taught me as a skier how much I really need to put in if I want to achieve my goals. I would reccomend this to anyone in the sporting industry or anyone who has aspirations of some sort. This book is an inspiritation to me and many others who have read it.